Trickers for Herring Shoes Charley Boot

I normally wouldn't do posts like this. This isn't supposed to be one of those blogs that are merely a catalogue of free advertising for products that doesn't really need it. But I just found this and found it interisting.
The market is flooded with 'casual' safety footwear for motorcycle riding. All of these looking like strange cross overs between streetwear sneaks and MBT abominations. The Charley boot is an attempt to make a genuinely stylish boot suitable for motorcycle riding.
I think the attempt is mainly successful and I like the boots overall, but what is going on with that shifter patch? I don't get why they didn't just integrate it with the wing tip. That could have been done in a much cleaner way.
They are made by Trickers so should be solid quality, but they don't seem to have any real proection build in other than that from a strong sole and thick leather. That might be sufficient for most - myself included, but I think that when you market a pair of boots as motorcycle boots they should have CE approved armor.
Theres also a plain model in brown as seen in the last photo.
Herring Shoes website

Trickers for Herring Shoes Charley Boot

Trickers for Herring Shoes Charley Boot

Trickers for Herring Shoes Charley Boot

Trickers for Herring Shoes Boorman Boot

Seiko SKX175 Custom

This watch has hardly been off my wrist since I got it back from the watchmaker.  The watch itself is a Seiko SKX175 - a Malaysian made version of SKX009 made for the american market.
The cool blue reflection you see on the face is caused by a domed sapphire crystal with a blue anti glare coating on the inside. Other than the crystal the watch has got a set of black day/date wheels instead of the stock white ones. Crystal and calendar wheels are both from Yobokies. Click that link. There's loads of inspiration.
The last mod is a bezel insert from Dagaz. The insert is a tribute to a Bell & Ross watch issued to the French Civil Defense Bomb Squad.
I expected the contrast between the dial and the calendar to be more noticable. The dial is dark blue, but it kind of fades away behind the blue coating on the crystal.
The only thing I am slightly disapointed about is the bezel insert. The color is a bit strange with a faint hint of violet to it, the lumen in the two pips are very weak compared to the brightnes of stock Seiko lumen and one of the pips are ever so lightly off center too.

My new custom Seiko SKX Demineur

My new custem Seiko SKX Demineur

Yes, The dial is blue

The watch prior to the mods.

Made to Measure Gloves From The UK

Early this winther when the cold started to set in I figured it was about time I got a new set of proper fitting gloves. Because of my slim hands with long fingers I have always had problems finding gloves with a good fit. Therefore I had already done a bit of casual research on bespoke gloves and found Chester Jefferies to offer an easy and cheap option.
You simply trace your hands on a piece of paper, mail it to them and pay a one-time fee of £20 to have them have them make a bespoke pair and store the pattern for future orders.
So I spend the good part of a minute on drawing an outline of both my hands and mailed it over to England. And started waiting.
A few weeks passed without a word when I suddenly got a call. The gloves were done; ready for shipping.
The photos below show the second pair. Yes, I had to return the first pair with some fitting problems. I actually half expected that. It takes more than just one drawing to get completely right.
The next pair however was not quite there yet, but I chose to keep it to evaluate thorough. A really good plan was it not for the fact that I managed to loose them on the bus just when I was about to feel confident about what to have changed.
The model I chose is a classic officer's glove, in an eyecatching yet classic color called old gold on the site. The leather is nice and soft and the crafting is fine, but nothing special - the stitching is a bit uneven in places. I had them lined in cashmere and they were very warm thogh really sleek.
I bought them as an evaluation pair before I would place an order on one of the finer hand made models, but it really buggers me to have lost them.

Chester Jefferies gloves

Chester Jefferies gloves

Chester Jefferies gloves

Strap

While waiting for a strap I ordered for the Tissot I decided to try to make a leather strap for my Seiko 5. This is inspired by some flieger style watches I have seen on the web. The new full grain leather looks a bit dull, but I am looking forward to see it develop a nice patina.

Hand made leather strap

Hand made leather strap

Hand made leather strap

Hand made leather strap

1966 Tissot Seastar

This watch makes the most amazing sound when it winds.

1966 Tissot Seastar

Merino Undershirts

I have been experimenting with technical baselayers as undershirts under a shirt and jacket for some time. The need for good temparature regulation is as strong in the summer as in the winter.
However I hate the feel of the polyester stuff you get most places. That's why I got pretty excited when I saw these. Extremely light, thin and soft 100% merino undershirts. The flat seams and lack of bright flashy colors and prints make these perfect for wearing under a dress shirt. And they are cheap too.
I have been testing these for about a week now and I have been perfectly warm all the time and most important; I haven't shed a single drop of sweat.
So now that I know they work in cold weather it's going to be good to see how they perform in the summer.
My only regret so far is that I only bought two.

Planet X merino base layer

Planet X merino base layer

Planet X merino base layer

 

A Starters Shoe Polishing Kit

Based on some advise I've picked up here and there I decided to expand my shoe shining kit. I already had shoe polish in black, brown and natural which I guess are the most basic colours so all I really needed was a leather cleaner, a set of quality brushes and something that has gotten a lot of love on Styleforum. Saphir Medaille d'Or Renovateur - I hink this is what is called a leather conditioner in english...

Some places have starter sets offered in nice wooden valets with everything you need. I was tempted, but since I already have some of the stuff and don't have lot's of money I figured I could do without the valet.

Instead I stuffed all that new junk in one of those bags you get with your boots, tossed it in the broom cupboard and now rest assured that I'm at least equipped to take proper care of my footwear. Money can't buy you technique and experience - so time to get buffing.

I must say I still struggle on the last point. It's not that I want a complete mirror like finish or anything. just a modest shine to the toe box seems pretty hard for me to achieve at the moment.

My sort of new shoe shining kit

A Thought or Two on Belts

As one of the most crucial aspects of looking good is wearing well fitting clothes, belts should purely be worn out of aesthetic sakes. If you are particulary tall and slim for instance, emphasising a horizontal line might make your appearance more well-proportioned.
The exception from the above sentiment and where a nice belt really comes to its right, is heavier casual trousers like jeans, cords and heavy twill chinos.
My newest craze in this department is belts with a single hole only. This is a bit impractical, but looks way more elegant and really shows off that your belt is custom made to you. I commisioned my tan bridle leather belt from Equus Leather a few months ago and I must say the quality of both the leather and the craftmanship is superb. Ihad the pleasure of having Charlie from Equus help me with my own design for the keeper. The belt was finished with no holes so I could punch in a hole on my own once I was sure on the measurements.
Next time I'll get a simpler verion in brown and with a blue coloured edge.

Custom single hole bridle leather belt from Equus Leather

Handmade Mother of Pearl and Silver Cufflinks: A Prototype

A while ago I got an idea stuck in my head and have since been spending quite some time hunting for the right buttons for this project. By coincidence I just found some nice ones in the perfect size - merely around the corner.
I got some off cuts of silver chain from a local jeweller and managed to actually make my first set of cufflinks. Now to test the durability of my craftmanship.
I bought plenty buttons so hopefully I will offer a few sets of cufflinks up for sale here in the near future. Let me know if you're interested.

Handmade sterling silver and mother of pearl cufflinks

Handmade sterling silver and mother of pearl cufflinks

Handmade sterling silver and mother of pearl cufflinks

A Challenge: Learn To Polish Your Own Boots

To me a part of being a grown up 'Real Man' is the love for lasting goods. But what is a pair of premium quality goodyear welted boots worth if you don't know how to take care of them? Few things are as nice as a pair of beautifully aged, well cared for boots. Yet few things are as sad as dry, cracked and disregarded quality footwear.
So one of my goals in my quest for becoming a 'Real Man' and the kind of dad I'd like to be, is to learn to take care of my boots and shoes.
I have been talking to my cobbler, searching the web and trialled and erred a bit. But i still have to find a method that is simple enough to do repeatedly in the hectic existance of a parent to a little kid, but still effective.
There is a very comprehensive discussion right here. So far I have found that black and brown polish, clear conditioner, a brush and old underwear all are essentials in your shoe shine box. And never ever polish your shoes in your white dress shirt!

Boots by Paul Smith and John Varvatos

Amsterdam

Stylish Mugs

We have always been fascinated by the outlaw and theese photos from a past exhibition at the Historical Houses Trust in Australia doesn't help a lot. These guys really show some attitude and are pretty sharply dressed too. The story behind the photos is quite intrigueing too. Browse through them and get some sartorial inspiration. There's even a book.

These pictures are from a series of around 2500 "special photographs" taken by New South Wales Police Department photographers between 1910 and 1930. These "special photographs" were mostly taken in the cells at the Central Police Station, Sydney and are, as curator Peter Doyle explains, of "men and women recently plucked from the street, often still animated by the dramas surrounding their apprehension". Doyle suggests that, compared with the subjects of prison mug shots, "the subjects of the Special Photographs seem to have been allowed - perhaps invited - to position and compose themselves for the camera as they liked. Their photographic identity thus seems constructed out of a potent alchemy of inborn disposition, personal history, learned habits and idiosyncrasies, chosen personal style (haircut, clothing, accessories) and physical characteristics."

'De Gracy' and Edwrd Dalton ca. 1920

Herbert Ellis ca. 1920

More mug shots here

"Silent Tom" Richards, Unknown Man and T Ross, alias Walton, 12 April 1920

Thomas Bede, 22 November 1928

Guiseppe Fiori, alias Permontto, 5 August 1924

'Ah Num' and 'Ah Tom', ca 1930

Gilbert Burleigh and Joseph Delaney, 27 August 1920

Sydney Skukerman, or Skukarman, 25 September 1924

John Walter Ford and Oswald Clive Nash, June 1921

Hampton Hirscham, Cornellius Joseph Keevil, William Thomas O'Brien and James O'Brien, 20 July 1921

Frederick Edward Davies, 14 July 1921

William Stanley Moore, 1 May 1925

William Cahill, 30 July 1923

A Beater Blazer

I needed a blazer to relieve my favourite one. It should be cheap so I wouldn't mind trashing it around, but still be worth wearing so I think this is a good solution: A cheap cotton blazer from H&M.

The good thing is that it fits me good off the rack so theres no need to have it tailored which would double it's price and make it not worthwhile. Another good thing is that it is all cotton (except polyester sleeve lining) so once you removed the shoulder pads you should be able to wash it in the washing machine.

Besides the rather cheap fabric and lousy construction I find it pretty bland. But nothing a fresh set of mother of pearl buttons can't help. I bought these beautiful white and smoked mother of pearl buttons from mat135ta in LA and i can't recommend them enough. And no, pictures won't do the iridescence the least bit of justice.

Mother of pearl buttons from mat135ta.

Then use this guide from Jeffery Diduch to sew them on and you're golden. His blog has anything you want to know about tailoring and is very interesting if you like to know how things are done.

Cheap blazer with nice buttons.

When it start to fall apart I will upgrade the blazer and keep the buttons on the new one.
Cheap and cheerful.

Cheap blazer with nice buttons.

Style tip #1 Sunglasses

Here's a quick tip to improve your style:

1st: Go pick up an old pair of glasses from the bottom of your grandma's drawer.
2nd: Now have your favorite optician fit tinted sun lenses in them.
3rd: Enjoy your stylish and very unique retro sunglasses. very chic, very en vogue right now.

Just take one advise from me: Don't do as i did and pick the cheapest lenses available. Go for quality, your retinas will thank you!

Old Viennaline spectacles converted to sunglasses

Old Viennaline spectacles converted to sunglasses

Textures

I have resently developed quite a penchant for silk and linen. Blended as well as pure these materials add some very refinded caracteristics to your garments.
For instance check out these pure silk trousers from Ralph Lauren. The very thin and soft fabric gives them the most beautiful drape and a cool and airy feel when worn.

Silk trousers Pole Raplph Lauren

Another example is the summer suit from Paul smith. It is made from a blend of linen and silk where the silk gives the twill a rich and open texture yet it feels surprisingly soft, drapes well and have this subtle silky sheen. A fabric like this calls for smooth plain weave cotton as provided here by the the shirt and pocket square.

Suit from Paul Smith

New shirt

Ahhh. A new crisp linen shirt, made to my measurements. This time with a pair of matching boxers. I am so looking forward to the luxorious feeling of having cool linen embrace my buttocks on the hot summer days.

A strange experience

Yesterday I was out browsing mens wear stores with my son in the baby carrier. In the most profiled smart wear store in the area i overheard the salesman talking to a customer in the fitting room. The customer wanted to try a matching tie with the suit he was buying and the salesman said that he was going to tie the tie for him, but had forgotten the technique. No one else in the shop came to assistance so i offered to tie it.

Salesman: >Yes, please.
Me: >You want a four in hand or a half windsor?
>...
>The thin crooked one or the thick newsreader knot?
>The thick one.

I then tied the tie to the short side so the loop would fit easily over the costumers head and handed it over.

Everyone was extremely impressed not least because i had my son on my chest the whole time.
It seems there's not much hope for the danish gentleman. Come on it's not that difficult!

Random Google image search result from here